
Kevin Vallely, polar explorer. Daniel Pi photo
KELLY MCMANUS, North Shore Outlook, Mar. 12, 2009
Kevin Vallely waited at the edge of the world with nothing but his skis and an 85-kilo sled.
Standing on the land-locked ice at Hercules Inlet, he gasped. From his shore-side view, Antarctica rose up in the distance like a monstrous, white dune.
Vallely held a video camera at the time, but the scene was promptly interrupted as the growl of the bush plane engines crescendoed behind him. Vallely’s pilot doubled back to say farewell, pulled a hard barrel roll, the airplane wing passing six metres overhead.
“(The pilot) did this crazy straight ascent and dove off to the side,” Vallely remembers. “That was the scariest point of the trip.”
Vallely hit the ground. Prostrate at the shores of Antarctica, he played out an ironic rendering of explorer tableaus stretching back through the centuries – picture that scene from Ridley Scott’s 1492, where, fresh off the boat, Christopher Columbus (Gerard Depardieu) kneels in the surf, his cape streaming behind him as he grips the sand of the New World, pressing it to his lips.
Swaddled in super-efficient cold weather gear, carrying solar panels and satellite phones, GPS equipment, a video camera, battery packs and 40 kilos of calorie-dense food, Vallely would follow in the footsteps of the great Antarctic explorers Scott and Amundsen. Except in 21st century expeditions, the “firsts” are all snapped up, and explorers like Vallely boldly go where others – sometimes many, many others – have been before. They just do it faster, and in Vallely’s case, fastest.
As he stood in Antarctica in December 2008, the North Vancouver adventurer had already achieved international notoriety for his grueling endurance treks – skiing 1,860 kilometers of Alaska’s frozen Iditarod trail, retracing the deadly 200 km of the infamous Sandakan Death March in Borneo, riding bikes for 2,000 km along a deep-winter Klondike route, climbing volcanos in Java. In 2002, his team placed 8th in the grueling Fiji Eco-Challenge. Eighty one teams started the race and only 10 crossed the finish line.
He even made a space for family adventures, paddling Siberia’s Lake Baikal with his wife and nine month old daughter, later hiking Ireland with his young family. Photos from last summer show him slogging up the road on roller skis in Lynn Valley, dragging his two delighted girls, 5 and 9 years old, in a car tire.
In short, Vallely is a 44-year-old human tank.
The Globe and Mail named him one of Canada’s top adventurers, citing him as a leader in the new breed of multi-sport adventurers taking endurance challenges to a whole new level.
And here, on the shores of Antarctica, began the North Vancouver architect and family man’s latest test of mettle, his dream for nearly 15 years.
He and his two companions – arctic explorer Richard Weber and ultramarathoner Ray Zahab – now had 1,130 kilometres of windswept ice between their crampons and their destination, the South Pole. They hoped to set the world record for fastest unsupported trip across Antarctica, leaving them less than 40 days to complete the trek.
As their plane boomed off for the horizon, it was evening, so they bedded down, listening to the wind beat at the walls of their tent.
Vallely felt the pressure come crashing in harder than the 120-km gusts that can sweep the continent. Would they succumb to numbing cold snaps or fall into a 100-metre-deep crevasse? Could they last on their high-fat food supply of deep fried bacon, butter and peanut butter? What if they had to call for help? What if they took too long and missed the record? Could they really do this? After a full year of planning and training, it was time to find out.
“The key is to have confidence in your 20 years experience,” says Vallely. “The reality is you’re going to ski every day, 14 hours a day … you suffer for the first two weeks. Then you finally become this automaton.”
The bowels of the glacier
It’s a masochistic urge – to push oneself beyond exhaustion, often in the world’s most inhospitable places.
Vallely’s not really sure how he caught the adventure bug. But he thinks it has something to do with a journey that began in a Montreal department store.
He was 9 years old. His little brother, Michael, was 5.
Their parents asked them to wait by the escalator while they ran an errand. An overzealous security guard shooed the boys out into the cold. It was 9 p.m. and along Rue St. Catherine, a bitter February blizzard pelted down.
Michael started to cry and the young Kevin Vallely did the only thing he could think of. He started walking home.
“I didn’t have money. I didn’t know where I was. I knew I was downtown and I knew I lived somewhere but I had no sense of how to get there,” he remembers.
They lost their way a few times, until, finally, four hours and roughly 10 km later, they stumbled to their home in Old Montreal, where the police were taking statements from their distraught parents.
He counts the experience as his first polar trek.
Vallely remembers thinking to himself, “Wow, that was pretty awesome.”
He surmises the misadventure translated in his adult life as, “This ability to be put in a hostile situation and come out of it with this sense of confidence.”
Vallely has a way of speaking nonchalantly about those “hostile situations,” like the bottomless crevasses that waited at the top of that monstrous, continental dune he saw from Hercules Inlet.
For two days Vallely, Zahab and Weber climbed the long slow hump that marked where, beneath ice millions of years thick, the continent rises up from the sea.
“There’s no sense of scale,” Vallely explains. “It (the Antarctic landscape) just goes and goes. You’re maybe looking one mile away or 100 miles away.”
Casting perpetual daylight, the sun ran tight little circuits overhead. In full sun, 2 a.m. looked the same as 2 p.m.
The skis would have to wait, as the ice was rock-hard. Vallely used crampons, dragging the sled behind him.
“It’s a pain. It’s a pig. Your sled, it’s always pulling you back. It’s awful fitting, but it’s your life line. Without it, you die.”
The team devised one way to lighten their sleds; they left their ropes at home.
They needed to cross brittle snow bridges over a network of 100-metre deep crevasses, and had decided that roping up would slow them down.
“It’s all bravado when you’re in Vancouver,” Vallely remembers, but with day three came the crevasses. If they fell, they would disappear into the bowels of the glacier.
They probed some snow bridges only to have them collapse, the ice chunks careening off into the abyss.
Zahab crossed a narrow bridge, and when his sled followed him, the structure crumbled.
The sled fell too, pulling Zahab back toward the deep fissure. Vallely watched in horror as Zahab lost ground, his crampons scraping slowly backwards, until Zahab managed to pull himself out.
“It was okay,” remembers Vallely. “We were expecting it (a harrowing time over the crevasses). We were ready for that. We said let’s get this thing and get over it. We were all pretty level-headed.”
7,000 calorie days
The next 30 days were an escalating slog.
They quickly established a routine: on the snow at 9 a.m., then off again at 8 p.m.
From their tent, they filed reports via satellite phone to their website, southpolequest.com, where thousands of school kids across North America followed their daily progress.
The temperature ranged from -15 to -40 C. The wind ranged between 10 and 50 knots, sneaking through the seams in their gloves. Two weeks in, Vallely battled altitude sickness.
“Think about the most exhausted you’ve ever been. You’re completely baked. Every day was like that and then some. You could never even fathom that you would do it all again the next day.”
Burning an estimated 1,000 calories per hour, the men ate sticks of butter, chocolate truffles, macadamia nuts, and deep fried bacon grease (Pemiken) to fuel their raging furnaces. But they still lost weight – they were “man-hauling monster sleds” and putting in close to a marathon every day.
Vallely switched from crampons to skis for a little “kick and glide relief,” but essentially, he was cross country skiing with weight equivalent to a full grown man in tow.
“I looked at my legs. They were sticks. I was metabolizing muscle,” says Vallely. “We realized why people like Scott had died out there. It was a matter of time. Your body just eats itself.”
Vallely had plenty of time to think about the unlucky Robert Falcon Scott. Using his iPod, he listened to The Worst Journey in the World, Apsley Cherry-Garrard’s account of the fatal 1912 expedition where Scott and two fellow explorers succumbed to the Antarctic void.
He quickly turned off that audio book.
Then he tried Life of Pi, but salivated too desperately at one passage where the characters, lost at sea, fantasize about food.
“God,” he thought, “I’m sick of Pemiken,” and he daydreamed of fresh fruits and vegetables.
“In the end, you cope with it (the drudgery) by drifting in and out of thought,” says Vallely. “And you get into these strange emotional states, dredging the depths of your mind … it’s a cool place to be, when nothing matters – how much you have in RRSPs, all those money worries peel away, all that matters is existing, surviving.”
By the last push, in one 20-hour day, they burned 20,000 calories, logging 30 nautical miles or 55 km miles, the longest single-day push in polar history.
Their hips and shoulders bruised and shredded under their pack harnesses, and Vallely was even frightened of peeing blood.
But Zahab is a world-class ultra runner, Weber one of the world’s leader polar adventurers and Vallely a proven endurance machine. They did what they do best: they persevered and they took the record, standing at the pole five days earlier than any other expedition in history.
“It was complete anti-climax,” shrugs Vallely.
At first they couldn’t find the marker for the true pole. After hunting around in the snow, they found a lonely wooden stake.
With a strewn landscape of discarded equipment the South Pole station looked “like a Walmart on stilts. It’s like walking into the opening scene from Terminator.”
Still, they found a tetrapack of wine. At 8:45 in the morning, they toasted their success, set up the tent and collapsed from exhaustion.
Hours later, they were back at Patriot Hills base camp via airplane, where Vallely called The Outlook from his satellite phone in their little tent near the airstrip. He was tired. He was happy to have the record. He couldn’t wait to eat some vegetables. The most important part of the trip, he explained, was coming home:
“Taking the long journey, the whole point is to come back to where you started from and see everything differently.”
There and back again
Before Vallely made it home in mid-January, he, Zahab and Weber sat out a storm at Patriot Hills. They ate and read books, sleeping for 20 hours a day.
Vallely was ready for what was coming – a post trip low where the body and the mind are exhausted, and the emotions are too. He had experienced the dejection before, and knew this time it might be worse.
Vallely had smashed a career goal, getting to the pole and doing it faster than anyone. Even their moment of victory had been anticlimactic, as the three men searched for that shabby marker in the snow.
He was happy to finally see his family. He was happy to put on some weight and, for a welcome change, take a break from exercise. After 1,130 km of manhauling, his body needed one hell of a holiday.
Sitting in a coffee shop just over a month after returning home, Vallely speaks frankly.
“It’s been a low,” he explains of finally getting to the South Pole and breaking the record. “You achieve something and the second you achieve it you realize, well now what?”
This question must have plagued explorers through the ages – the ones who lived, that is. What’s the next big adventure, the next big high, the next, as Vallely puts it, “hostile situation?”
Sure, he says, he’ll plan some more extreme expeditions, but not yet.
For now he wants to “go inward,” maybe write a book, definitely speak to schools and groups about pushing the limits of endurance.
His daughters are getting to that age, the age when he and his brother found their way home in stormy Montreal.
Vallely won’t leave little Caitlin and Ariana standing alone by the escalator, but he does want to take them climbing, hiking and paddling. He wants to venture with them to other countries to show them how other families live, maybe witness that moment when the passion to go harder and farther awakens in them, just as it did for him.
Most importantly, he wants to share rare and exceptional moments with them, like the ones he experienced in Antarctica. Zahab and Weber would be prepping in the tent after a long day of slogging. Vallely would be the last man outside. He remembers the perpetual sun, the winds racing over the continental ice sheet. He would stop and spin, taking in an unforgettable 360 degree view of pristine ice, an untouched, unforgiving wilderness. Nothing but challenge and possibility stretched out to where the ice met the sky.
TALES OF ADVENTURE
Kevin Vallely speaks next week at The Great Outdoors Show, March 20-22 at Abbotsford’s TRADEX. Hours: March 20, 12-9 p.m., March 21, 10 a.m.-6 p.m., March 22, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tickets: $4-$10. For more info, go to www.thegreatoutdoorsshow.com. For more about Kevin Vallely’s adventures, visit www.kevinvallely.com